clutch change

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rupert's
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rupert's » November 20th, 2024, 3:29 pm

Hi again, I'm bringing up the thread because I'm still mulling over this issue...

https://www.joesmotorpool.com/clutch-pr ... mb-slat-mb

I think this clutch is valid for our mutts, it says it's valid for: Ford GPA, Ford GPW, Willys MB, Willys MB slat grille, Hotchkiss M201

Do you know that these cars have the same clutch as ours? What do you think? Should I risk buying it?
all the best

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rickf
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rickf » November 20th, 2024, 4:26 pm

I don't know but I doubt it. They are completely different engine and transmission. I know the M151 is a weird spline size/count because out of all the clutch pilots I have not one of them fits.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
1953 M37 W/W
1953 M37 converted to 12 volt

rupert's
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rupert's » November 20th, 2024, 5:39 pm

rickf wrote:
November 20th, 2024, 4:26 pm
I don't know but I doubt it. They are completely different engine and transmission. I know the M151 is a weird spline size/count because out of all the clutch pilots I have not one of them fits.
I know the clutch disc is different, and I have a new one at home that I checked is for 151.
what I intend to replace is is
This:
embrague 151.1.png
And put this other one:
embrague 151.2.png
Maintaining the 151 clutch disc.
I don't know if I explained myself well
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lpcoating
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by lpcoating » November 20th, 2024, 6:53 pm

Why not just buy the proper parts?

Guy
M151 Body Panels - http://www.m151bodypanels.com/


1968 M151 A1 - Under full resto
1971 M151 A2

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glcaines
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by glcaines » November 20th, 2024, 7:51 pm

lpcoating wrote:
November 20th, 2024, 6:53 pm
Why not just buy the proper parts?
Guy
Ditto. If you purchase the proper parts, there will be no confusion in the future if you or someone else needs to go there.
M151A2 (1977), M151A2 (1973)
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M149A1 Water Buffalo Trailer
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rickf
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rickf » November 20th, 2024, 11:01 pm

He is in Spain, probably not a lot of 151 parts there. The plate will depend on first the bolt pattern, second the thickness of the disc made for it compared to the 151 disc and lastly the actual distance the throwout bearing has to move compared to the M151 pressure plate. And another I just thought of is if the throwout bearing will work with this pressure plate.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
1953 M37 W/W
1953 M37 converted to 12 volt

rupert's
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rupert's » November 21st, 2024, 3:23 pm

lpcoating wrote:
November 20th, 2024, 6:53 pm
Why not just buy the proper parts?

Guy
rickf wrote:
November 20th, 2024, 11:01 pm
He is in Spain, probably not a lot of 151 parts there. The plate will depend on first the bolt pattern, second the thickness of the disc made for it compared to the 151 disc and lastly the actual distance the throwout bearing has to move compared to the M151 pressure plate. And another I just thought of is if the throwout bearing will work with this pressure plate.
The right parts... The three-finger system has given me problems, it is difficult for me to configure it, those plates that are needed in inches I do not know how many millimeters they are equivalent to, nor where to place them, how to do it, the image in the manual is confusing for me. The last time I touched the clutch I was for a while with clutch slippage, I had to adjust by trial and error, making adjustments in the middle of the way through the lower inspection cover, lying on the ground anywhere burning my hands. Now I have to remove the clutch again, and I do not want to have this problem again, so I am looking for another option...
I want to make a purchase of several pieces but I am waiting to see if this one is valid... As I see it seems that this substitution cannot be made.

If it cannot be done I will buy a kit of fingers and springs and update my current system, but I am lazy about the adjustment...

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rickf
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rickf » November 21st, 2024, 4:11 pm

The adjustment is made from the drivers side next to the engine. You turn in or out the rod that goes into the bell housing.

Here is a converter from MM to inch. There are 25.4 mm per inch

https://www.google.com/search?q=inches+ ... e&ie=UTF-8
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
1953 M37 W/W
1953 M37 converted to 12 volt

rupert's
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rupert's » November 21st, 2024, 4:18 pm

rickf wrote:
November 21st, 2024, 4:11 pm
The adjustment is made from the drivers side next to the engine. You turn in or out the rod that goes into the bell housing.

Here is a converter from MM to inch. There are 25.4 mm per inch

https://www.google.com/search?q=inches+ ... e&ie=UTF-8
With this adjustment I couldn't get the clutch to work well. There came a point, either I was always skidding or the gears were scratching, especially the reverse gear, and I had to adjust the fingers, with the screws that each one has on the back.

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rickf
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rickf » November 21st, 2024, 8:24 pm

That is a factory adjustment and should not be changed. I have never in 55 years of doing this work ever had to change those factory adjustments on a light vehicle. Only ever had to do it on farm tractors and equipment with dual clutches and no outside adjuster. If you change just one of those adjusters then you now have uneven pressure from side to side and you will end up with just what you had. And I am talking only .001-.002 difference. If you were able to adjust the clutch from slipping to grinding then there was nothing wrong with the adjustment. You set an inch or to of free play at the top of the pedal and done. It sounds like maybe your clutch disc was swollen from oil or other contaminates. But, it is your vehicle and you can do whatever you think you need to do to make it right. But I cannot help you when you are mixing and matching parts from who knows what.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
1953 M37 W/W
1953 M37 converted to 12 volt

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svramselaar
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by svramselaar » November 23rd, 2024, 7:16 am

hi

to adjust see below
you can put the plate abd pressure plate to the flywheel to adyust if you have not a steel plate at the right thicknes
i have addet a washer below the springs to get more pressure at the plate
drukgroep afstellen.jpg
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rupert's
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rupert's » November 24th, 2024, 8:09 am

Okay! You guys are the ones who know, I'll follow your advice, I'm going to buy 3 new fingers and 3 new springs, to make the adjustment these would be the steps...

1- I remove the flywheel from the engine and on a table I screw the pressure plate on it. Do I have to place the clutch disc to calibrate?
2- Is the measurement from 1.644 to 1.618 inches from the tip of the fingers through the round hole in the pressure plate to the flywheel? Or do I have to measure it up to the metal base that has this round hole?

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Horst
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by Horst » November 24th, 2024, 8:31 am

get the pressure plate and a new disk, either fiber or puck style, e.g. from Kemper Parts in Germany and you will be fine
Horst

1972 USMC M151A2 w/ROPS (ex Barstow) and M416
1962 M201 and trailer
1966 GTO,1982 E350 Skoolie, 1987 SJ413, 1987 911, 2002 Panda 4x4
Gone: 2xM35A2c, Unimog 404S, Hanomag AL28, DKW Munga

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rickf
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by rickf » November 24th, 2024, 10:52 am

rupert's wrote:
November 24th, 2024, 8:09 am
Okay! You guys are the ones who know, I'll follow your advice, I'm going to buy 3 new fingers and 3 new springs, to make the adjustment these would be the steps...

1- I remove the flywheel from the engine and on a table I screw the pressure plate on it. Do I have to place the clutch disc to calibrate?
2- Is the measurement from 1.644 to 1.618 inches from the tip of the fingers through the round hole in the pressure plate to the flywheel? Or do I have to measure it up to the metal base that has this round hole?
You would need a .310 gauge block to measure to. This would have to be done on a perfectly clean and flat surface. Setting up a clutch this way is not a do it yourself job for the most part. Can you do it? Yes, but getting it perfect is something that is learned over many years of experience. As Horst says, buy a complete setup and I would strongly suggest using the fiber clutch disk. The puck clutch is very touchy and is either in or out. If you try to slip it much it will chatter, this is simply a trait of puck clutches. The military went to that style because young kids driving these vehicles pulling trailers were burning out fiber clutches.
1964 M151A1
1984 M1008
1967 M416
04/1952 M100
1953 M37 W/W
1953 M37 converted to 12 volt

lpcoating
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Re: clutch change

Unread post by lpcoating » November 24th, 2024, 7:10 pm

Seems like I said this about 10 posts ago. Get the correct parts! :roll:
M151 Body Panels - http://www.m151bodypanels.com/


1968 M151 A1 - Under full resto
1971 M151 A2

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