Shifter Shaft Seal Replacement

[glcaines]

I have a 2-ton load leveler from Harbor Freight, but had let someone borrow it. I now have it back and am using it. My pressure washer is now back in order for use, but I need to drive to Atlanta tomorrow which is 2-1/2 hours each way, so tomorrow is wasted for more work. It's supposed to rain anyway. Saturday is now my target for cleaning the power pack and replacing the seal.

[glcaines]

The power pack is now cleaned up and the seal is removed. Even with the power pack removed, I played hell getting that seal out. It appears that red locktite was used when the seal was installed, or something similar that was also red. I tried a drift, tapping lightly and ended up pounding the hell out of it and still no movement. I ended up using a 1/4 inch wood chisel to cut the seal out. I ended up cutting the seal rim up in pieces, which was very difficult while trying not to damage the bore. The bore is still perfect. I worked on that XXX!!! seal for 2 hours! There was no possible way to get that seal out without first pulling the power pack when someone used that red sealer. I don't even see how anyone could get the circlips out and re-installed without pulling the power pack. That red locktite, or whatever it was, impressed me with the grip it had on that seal. Interestingly, it took me longer to remove that seal than it took me to remove the power pack. Now the problem I have is that I have misplaced the new seal.

[rickf]

I don't know why someone would use red locktite, but that does not mean they didn't. I am thinking more along the lines of anaerobic sealant that is used where you have machined surfaces and no gasket. Engine case halves and transmission case halves use it. And it is red. And no, it is not needed. It will come apart easily on mated surfaces but I am not sure about a surface that needs to slide. If I feel I need to use a sealer on the outer surface of a seal I use Permatex #3.

https://www.permatex.com/products/gaske ... maker-6ml/

[Mark]

I seem to remember using a small bottle torch(yellow color) to free a seal from the housing.Maybe it was on the end of the transmission?Ok, The memory is faint so delete my post, if it don't apply.

[glcaines]

I installed the new seal yesterday. I sealed it with Permatex #3. It slid right in with minimal hammer taps. I turned a socket around backwards with a 3/8" extension plugged in from the back side and tapped lightly with a hammer. No problem. My old seal would likely have come out easily except for the red sealant used, possibly red Loctite. I'll assemble the rest of the assembly today and possibly also re-install the power pack today since it is ready to put back in. I do intend to paint the valve cover as well but I'm going to wait until the power pack is back in before removing the valve cover. I don't want to risk messing up the new paint while maneuvering the power pack from the hoist, although it would be much easier to remove while the power pack is out.

[glcaines]

The power pack is back in the A2 and bolted in, but not without a problem. I purchased NOS mounts. The last one I tried to install was the left front, which is a pain because the generator is in the way. I tried and tried to get the bolt to screw in, but no joy. I finally pulled the lower portion of the engine mount and found that whoever the vender was to the military hadn't bothered to thread the hole for the bolt. I was really pissed off. I finally threaded the hole myself and installed it. I went ahead and installed the clutch linkage, but I'm beat and calling it a day.

[rickf]

Were these in sealed paper and foil packages with the NSN number on them? There is very little left in the way of real NOS parts anymore. What is called NOS now is stuff coming from Taiwan and China. A lot of the stuff from Taiwan is still made by the same companies that made it for the government back when they were new. Most of it is labeled Newstar. The difference being is that now they do not have to abide by quality control inspections and the high standards set for the parts when the military was getting them.

[glcaines]

Yes, these were sealed and appeared to be genuine U.S. Military surplus. Very disappointing. I'm sure I could have gotten a replacement since I purchased them from a reputable vendor, but I was in a hurry and it only took a few minutes to thread the hole. I try very hard to avoid the Chinese stuff. The worst thing I have bought for MVs that were made in China is 24 VDC headlight bulbs. I have never had an MV where the U.S. made bulbs burned out, but I have had several Chinese bulbs flash brightly when first powered up and then they turned black. When I find U.S. made bulbs, I buy them and save them for later.

[glcaines]

The A2 is now back together 100%. The seal I replaced is not leaking - actually, I no longer have any leaks of anything. I drove it about 25 miles and everything works great. Actually, the shifter rod where I replaced the seal works better now that I removed everything and cleaned it. Now, the ball detent works great when shifting from 2WD to 4WD. I can actually feel the ball dropping into both locations on the rod. Prior to working on it, the lever would move back and forth, but you couldn't actually feel the ball dropping into the detents. I filled the gearbox with GL4 which is yellow metal compatible. I also went ahead and changed the crankcase oil and filter again, although it had only been a few hundred miles since the last oil change. Same with new Prestone antifreeze. I'm amazed at how well this thing runs. I should probably have gone ahead and replaced the clutch. It obviously currently has a ceramic clutch disk and it works well. I'm very used to MVs and tractors with ceramic clutches, so that wasn't a concern for me.

[steveo]

Hey that’s fantastic news to hear.
Lots of work but for sure worth it!


<><

[Hambone]

Good to see you're back on the road.

[rickf]

Finally got some pics of my military engine lift spreader. Speaking of pics, did you guys delete your pics that were in this thread? I see links that tell me the pics do not exist anymore. Let me know so I know whether this was you or me working in the site.

IMG_1294.JPG

IMG_1295.JPG

IMG_1296.JPG

[199th mp]

rick, i had one of those in my specialty tool set i was building. i sure miss that jeep.

[steveo]

That…… is a real nice set of specialty tools for sure
199th mp. Sounds like ya need another mutt so you can use them.
Thanks for the pic.

[199th mp]

That…… is a real nice set of specialty tools for sure
199th mp. Sounds like ya need another mutt so you can use them.
Thanks for the pic.

all of those tools were from the 2nd, 3rd and 4th echelon repair sets outlined in the manuals. when i finally had to accept the physical limitations and sell my A1, at least it went to another MP. i sold the set to another owner, who was glad to get them. the guy who bought mine has kept in touch, and in the ten years since i let it go, the only thing that has failed is the old MP siren. i guess the repairs i did were done properly, primarily because i read the manual. rickf was a big help on the parts i didn't understand. he has a wealth of M151 knowledge, and should be taken seriously. i took this pic the day my jeep was hauled away. the antenna was removed and stored inside. the radio worked, as did everything else it had.