Flattened Door Channels

[ODRotorHead]

I apologize for not knowing the correct terminology, but the "door channels" on the sides of my A2 windshield are smashed flat:

Passenger Door Channel 001.jpg

The vehicle came to me in this condition and now I'm trying to figure out the best way to reshape the channels without damaging the windshield.

Has anyone dealt with this problem before? Any suggestions as to how to re-shape the channels?

Thanks,

Mark

[rickf]

A piece of round steel stock, I think it is 1/4", or even threaded rod. Threaded rod would be a good place to start to get the size you need from a good section somewhere but I would go for round stock if possible for the repair since threaded rod will chew up the inside of that channel and make it real hard to rustproof. Then weld an 1/8" piece if flat steel to the side of a 2-3" section of that round stock for a handle. Grind the ends of the stock to a blunt point. There is your forming tool. Now just gently pry out the window channel until the round stock will fit in and lightly tap the channel around the tool. It would be best to use a light body hammer for this.
There was a company in Fla. years ago that made those channels but they went out of business and nobody has picked up on them. My sizes may be off but you get the idea of what to do. If I get a chance I will measure one tomorrow afternoon.

[m3a1]

First of all, this will require touching up the area that's going to be worked.

Lots of different ways to go about it but it begins with gently spreading that groove apart. Start at the widest, undamaged area and gently work your way toward the flattened area. A LARGE flathead screwdriver has been my weapon of choice for the spreading process and you're going to do the spreading by hand....not by hammer.

For the reforming process (and depending upon how much you care about the screwdriver) you might blunt and chamfer the tip of the screwdriver with a grinder so that it's close to the profile of the inside of the groove so that it sets the space correctly and then use the flat plane on the side of the screwdriver as a sort of forming die. As for the hammer, this is not the place for a claw hammer or a 5-lb maul. Get a hammer that is appropriate for the work you're doing.

By the way, it will probably be advantageous to have that side view mirror out of the way if you work with the windshield frame while it's on the truck.

Don't imagine that you can insert a rod in that groove and hammer it through the groove to reform it. That's not going to happen. This is good steel you're working with. Just lever it out a bit at a time. Don't go crazy with it. Be patient and show it some love and it will behave very nicely for you.

Once you've got it spread, it's time to (gently) bring it back to the correct profile. As hard as metal seems to be, it behaves like a plastic. Keep that in mind as you work and you'll be amazed at the results.

Cheers,
TJ

[ODRotorHead]

Rick and TJ. Thanks very much for those suggestions. The very top of the channel isn't quite flattened so I'm considering trying to use one half of a small door hinge (rounded edges on the insertion end) to slide (tap) down and gradually work the channel away from the frame. If I understand correctly, that would be similar to Rick's suggestion but without the welding. For TJ's spreading tool idea, I have a small (really small), thin pry bar that's about 1/2" wide. The front edge already has a good taper on it, so I think it might serve as well as a screwdriver to get under the edge. I'll give it a try.
I'm also considering using a steel rod - ground to a flat surface on one side (to go against the frame) and with a gradually tapered offset point - to work down the channel while I peen the leading edge back into the desired form. I won't tap directly on the channel because sure as day, I'll end up whacking the windshield frame a dozen times. I'll use some kind of tool similar to a punch but with a larger contact surface.
I have a suspicion that, as I work my way down to the more flattened section, any rod I use for forming is going to try to squirt out through the open front edge. That may require some creative bracing and clamping.
TJ, I know exactly what you mean when you say "show it some love." I watched our local "Dent Doctor" work a couple of jobs and that was pure magic.
I have a few tools for body work, but this is beginning to sound like a good excuse to pay another visit the auto parts store. I'll definitely take the mirror off before I get started
If I can get the channel back into shape, I'm hoping I'll be able to repaint the inside of the channel by running a paint soaked length of soft cotton cord through it. Whatever happens, I have a feeling that this is going to be a long, slow, tedious process. To be honest, I'm not looking forward to it.
Thanks again for your excellent suggestions. I'll let you know how it goes.
Mark

[rickf]

I did not intend for the tool I was talking about to be used directly to reform to channel, you will need to pry the metal out and then tap it in against the tool and then move the tool down and repeat. The door hinge is a good idea, same principal but already made, as long as the round part is the diameter you need.

[m3a1]

I think you get the idea. Spread it first then gently bring it back to shape. It's not that much trouble, I assure you. Did it on my MUTT and had it sorted out very quickly. I elected to use the screwdriver method simply because it moved less surface area and that made it easy to do.

It's like eating an elephant. The larger the bite you take, the harder it is.

Anyway, I recommend you go into it with the intent to have some fun with it and it will seem less of a chore.

Cheers,
TJ

[m38inmaine]

I purchased a pair of new channels from CMD, not sure if the uppers on the WS are the same.

[rickf]

Interesting, He told me he was not going to make those. What section did he make?

[m38inmaine]

I have the lowers for the body, I believe he told me they were a pre production sample, I will post pictures of them when I get home later.