engine

[Horst]

ah ok, I thought you had an A2 engine which does not run and want to replace it with a running one?

If I were you, I would still get the alternator and sell the generator. I am assuming your don't have the regulator for the generator anyway, so why spend money in the wrong direction.

[rupert's]

ah ok, I thought you had an A2 engine which does not run and want to replace it with a running one?

If I were you, I would still get the alternator and sell the generator. I am assuming your don't have the regulator for the generator anyway, so why spend money in the wrong direction.

I have an A2 engine that has nothing at all ... neither alternator nor carburetor nor spark distributor (It is incomplete). Just a broken engine block, which is why I have looked for an engine that has it all.

With the engine I include the regulator for the generator. On the one hand it is but because I am making a modification but on the other hand I hope it will be easier because I suppose I have everything.
Having the regulator ... Do you think it is better to make the change to A2?

[Horst]

Got you. Maybe post some pictures of your jeep, this way it might be easier to give advice.

I personally would never put an A1 set-up into an A2, sounds like you have a later model A2 as you were talking about the black canister. Not that it does not work, but I like an original set-up. (I agree that in my case that is easy as I am the first civilian owner of my 151).

I have to admit that it might be expensive to get the 60amps alternator, I did a quick check on the web and you can spend easily 500€ or more. I would still do it, sell the 25 amps set-up, not sure how much you would get for it, but for sure above 100€.

[rupert's]

Photos...
In the first 2 the engine is broken, it cannot be recovered
Then the mutt and finally the black bottle that I think is in the way.

Anyway, I'm going to think about a day or two whether to make the change, but the alternators are too expensive to have one at home that doesn't work for me. So for me it is easier to leave it as it is.
a greeting

[Horst]

Again sorry, but your pictures confirm my opinion. You put so much effort in making this a nice 151. Now not making it right in the engine bay would be a shame.

The black bottle is the charcoal canister of the emission system. While you can remove it, again, why not making it correct. You want to connect that canister correctly to the fuel system, I see you have the correct A2 emission control fuel tank.

Where are you getting your A1 engine from? Don't they have any alternators? These alternators where/are used on many M-series trucks, so there should be some supply of used ones.

[Horst]

BTW, the bolt for the rear tie down shackle is upside down, the nut shall be at the bottom

[rickf]

I was also under the impression that you had all the parts from an A2 engine and I agree with Horst that going to the A1 setup will be just as expensive in the long run. You are going to find that you need to adapt the charging system wiring to make that 25 amp generator and regulator work. The A1 had mounting pads already in place for the regulator where that charcoal canister is located. I doubt the mounts for the canister are the same so you will have to make mounts for the regulator also. I would keep looking for an A2 engine since most replacement engines were configured as A2 and had to be reconfigured to A1 if you had an A1. There have got to be A2 configured engines available over there.

[rupert's]

I am going to buy this engine, everything has already been discussed and I will continue to go ahead, but I will heed your advice ... I continue with plan "A"

I will buy the 60A alternator, and put the pulleys from my old engine, then I will try to sell the 25 alternator together with the voltage regulator. So the motor will be A2 and will be as it has to be.

[rupert's]

Hello to all colleagues! I got the engine for the mutt !! But ... I'm a bit confused ..
I have checked the compression of the cylinders and I don't think I have good results ... it gives me:

5 bar 72,5Psi
4,5 bar 65 Psi
6 bar 87 Psi
5,5 bar 79 Psi

Are these compressions normal? What compression should it have? Maybe the motor is bad? the seller told me the motor was running when it was removed, 7 years ago ...
Tomorrow a mechanic will come to check this and take a general look at the entire engine but I don't know, I'm not very happy with what I've seen.

[Surveyor]

You are looking for closer to 135 to 145 to be in spec. You need to make sure the timing is correct, the valves are seating properly (sitting so long there is bound to be rust), etc. and then recheck compression. I ended up putting new rings and honing the cylinders on mine. Even after I did all that I still only get about 115 to 125 on each cause the cylinder walls were pitted from sitting close to 20 years, but it still runs great. I followed the manual and got advice from Rick and others here. Not much to it if you have the time and the tools. Good luck!

[rickf]

Put a few squirts of oil in each cylinder and spin it a few times and then check again and see how much it comes up. Sitting that long everything will be dry and there is sure to be some rust in the cylinders. How much rust is the key question. I would probably pull the head off if there is any question mainly to see the actual condition of the cylinders and valves.

[Horst]

Agree that the numbers are a little low, see below what the results on my spare engine were (second page):

vorderseite.jpg

rueckseite.jpg

[Mark]

You can't read them as it is too small

[acudanut]

Rupert, where are you from ?

[rickf]

Mark, click on the pics to enlarge them and Rupert is from Spain.