Civilian Truck + Military Trailer | Wiring Adapter

[mrdibbles]

Hey Guys-
I'll be driving down to Fort Bragg to pick up my M101A2, within the next couple weeks, and I need to sort through how to do it safely. First on my list is to make sure the trailer is properly wired for the recovery and haul home. I found and read a bunch of threads (lot's on Steel Soldiers) and searched the web high and low. There seems to be a variety of different options, some that are very cheap, and others that aren't so cheap.

I think my plan will be to change out the bulbs (in the trailer lights) to run 12V (12v size 1156 = large bulbs and 12v size 67 = small bulbs) and purchasing an adapter (from Erik's Surplus - shown below). What do you electricians think about this... am I sniffing glue or does this look like a reasonable approach?

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/mitradcamtro.html



Here's the trailer... M101A2 bought at Fort Bragg (Paid $477). I'm sure they can be bought more cheaply, in other auctions, but this one's about an hour away...

http://www.govliquidation.com/auction/v ... Id=5718171#

[toptiger]

might be they left a $4,000 generator in it.
It has happened before.
Good luck.

[WC Matt]

I'm no electrician but your plan sounds feasable. I'm sure your already aware of checking over the trailer and making sure things like tires (& bearings) are in good shape for the haul & that you have "enough" vehicle for the job? Good luck!
Matt

[salt6]

Actually thats a good price. I paid $390 for mine. The reset in the lot went in the $450 range. Bulbs should already be 12v. These trailers were used for the CUCV series of vehicles.

I'd sujest taking the cavas and bows off for your recovery. Also check the surge brake, and brakes before you leave. There is a way to disable the surge brake and I wish I'd done that on my recovery, 300+ miles. Also stop and check the hubs after about 15 - 20 minutes of driving.


Here is the shortcut to the trailer manual on SS

http://test.steelsoldiers.com/upload/tr ... 2-14&P.pdf

[moose53]

all i've done on my M101A1 is change the bulbs to 12V and i made an adapter like you showed in the picture to connect. if you make the adapter it will cost you less than $20.00.... works perfect, and did not have to modify the trailer at all. all you need is a used body jack with a section of the wires still attached($11.00 to 14.00), and a four pin harness ($5.00), some butt connectors, and some black vinyl electrical tape.

Jim

[salt6]

A2s should be 12v. Pulled by CUCVs.
I would just buy or borrow some magnetic lights. That way you know you have good lights and csn do any changes at home.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

[rickf]

I second the magnetic trailering lights, a lot less to go wrong. You can even get wireless LED ones now although I would still use the good old fashioned wired ones. K.I.S.S.
Never thought about the CUCV towing, I will have to look at the wiring diagrams. That would mean they would have to have dedicated trailers just for the CUCV's and not to be pulled by HMMVEE's. I will bet that has resulted in a lot of blown lights.

Rick

I just looked at the price of that adapter!!!! The magnetic trailer light kit is about half of that and can be used for other uses.

[rickf]

Are EUC's going through that quickly now? Last one I did took about three months.

[rickf]

I just looked over the pic's of the trailer, take a real good look at the master cylinder, it has been over run and the breakaway is bent and the lid smashed. A lot of the time The cylinder itself will crack.

[Rainman]

Just my 2 cents Matt, but I've seen those adapters go for just over a hundred, so in the $70's is good. If you were only planning on pullin it with your civi truck once in awhile, I'd go with magnetic or a set of 12v trailer lights mounted on a board or even a cheap jerry rig homemade aadapter. Seems your civi truck will be the sole transporter of this M101, so I'd go with the professionally made $70 adapter. It's neat, clean, and takes little effort on your part. Seems the 12v/24v bulbs would be up in the air if pulled by CUCV or HUMV, but could even be LEDs and it won't matter. Carry a pair of 1157's during the recovery to CYA and don't run the blackouts on the ride home.
Rainman

[mrdibbles]

Thanks for the input guys. I'll go with the route I've planned out and appreciate the cautionary advice. That's what this forum is for so thanks a million! The day I head down there I'll plan for some extra FUBAR-time and deal with Murphy as needed. I'm pretty sure I'll need to do some PM and R&R on this trailer but frankly I'm lookin' forward to it.

[salt6]

All in all they're good trailers. Might want to add a spare to your recovery kit.

[moose53]

it might have a spare, mine came with a spare mounted in the bed...

Jim

[mrdibbles]

Hey Guys-
Trailer update. First... I'm just loving this M101A2 trailer. It tracks very well behind my Toyota Tacoma and I just flat like the way they look together. I still need to get a slightly taller adapter for the pintle mount (or just put a 2-inch lift on the truck) because I'm not crazy about how she leans forward a little (would be a lot worse if I didn't already have the pintle raised).

Since getting the trailer I've done the following:
1.) Replaced Surge Brake and Lunette unit with NOS
2.) Replaced the wheel caps and cleaned and lubed the bearings.
3.) Put new inter-vehicle cable on the trailer
4.) Installed an adapter and military outlet on the Tacoma
5.) Changed out the light bulbs on the trailer for 12V
6.) Installed NOS Trailer shock absorbers (super hard to find but I found a set at a super random supplier)

That's it. Like I said I'm loving it

Question: How do I bleed the brake lines? Without someone to sit and pump the brakes I'm kinda at a loss of what to do?

Photos below:







Thanks,
Matt-

[Mr. Recovery]

Matt, any of these will do the job.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... ke+Bleeder