cant get brake drum off axel

[Lindsay36551]

Hey guys , Im having a hell of a time removing a brake drum .
Ive backed off brake shoes what else could it be?
Need to replace a blown outer bearing.

[Mark]

I had the same problem once a upon a time, I think I heated the hub edge

[m3a1]

Heres tips and tricks for doing the hub bearings.

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=8354&start=75

Give me a few minutes and I'll link you up to tips and tricks for drum removal.

TJ

[m3a1]

Ok, sorry, I'm being called away. In short, THOROUGHLY clean off the hub where it protrudes through the drum. Remove the chunky rust as much as possible. Apply PB blaster or your favorite rust-breaking lube to that joint between the hub and drum and (more importantly) get that stuff in the joint between the upper lugs and the drum. You're trying to get that lube to dribble down between the flange and the inside face of the drum.

Next, you can do one of two things. Shock the drum by putting a heavy something on the shoulder of the drum and on the opposing side, giving it a good, healthy whack with a soft metal hammer...(copper or lead). So, 9 o'clock/3 o'clock or whatever works for you. If it doesn't let go, don't worry. Don't beat on it until you're blue in the face. The next step is almost a guaranteed winner and far easier.

Get a MAPP gas torch at Home Depot (they're very cheap) or use a similar torch. You're going to want eye protection for this step for sure. What you want to do is create one (ONE) hot spot on the face of the drum between two of the lugs. Don't heat the whole thing. We're looking for asymmetrical heat here because you want that drum face to flex just a little bit. That flex will break the rust bond between the drum face and the flange behind it. When you hear the pop (it'll be quite obvious) and little rust bits fly everywhere, you're done.

Cheers,
TJ

[rickf]

I usually heat between the studs like TJ but I heat between each one for a little bit each one and also around the inner edge of the drum just above the hub. Eventually it will pop off. I have had drums shoot several feet.

[m3a1]

Try heating one spot (first). I won't hurt anything to heat it uniformly but that cost you time and gas. The key is - You want that plate that forms the face of the drum to warp. That will break the rust bond between the plate and the flange loose. Never fails.

[rickf]

Picky, picky. It is more fun to shoot it across the room with a loud bang and watch people run for the bathroom. Then again I am working with an oxy-acetylene torch so I have the extra heat to do that quickly which is needed.

[Lindsay36551]

Thanks guys! off to the garage with my flack vest in tow!

[Lindsay36551]

I tried every thing you told me to do, My neighbor has a hub puller . we will try that next! probably not till Sunday, its 40 and to cold to work on it for a couple days.

[rickf]

What kind of torch are you using? You need to heat the spot between the studs almost red and then move to the next one. Then smack it in the same area with a hammer if the heat alone does not do the trick. Don't hit the studs. A hub puller will most likely break the edge of the drum. Either there is rust holding it or the shoes are still out too far. Can you rotate the drum with no problem? And can you continue to rotate it as you pull out?

[m3a1]

Rome wasn't built in a day. You may have to wash, rinse and repeat. I've never known one to NOT let go with the method I described. You may have to apply more heat to get that drum face to warp and break that rust bond. Warping is most efficiently achieved by uneven heating which is why I urged you to heat in one spot, rather than all over.

After it has cooled, try another spot. A rust bond across the entire face of the flange will be strong because that's a lot of surface area. But, it is rather fragile when attacked at a single point.

Stick with it. It will give in.

As a sidebar comment, I will say my experience is limited to M151A2. So guys, Is there any possibility M151s of earlier vintage may have been produced with the traditional set screw drum-to-hub flange, such as is found on Willys?

[Mark]

I had the same problem my 151 or 38a1, I think I heated it then sprayed water on it or the super cold stuff in an aerosal can, my memory is lacking.ask the internet, you will get a lot of solutions/ya, I know I am passing the buck, the ones here are good but whatever works

[m3a1]

We haven't discussed what condition your truck is or how it came to be in such a condition. Assuming the worst scenario (like the Titanic) I had an idea that might have some merit though I've never actually had to try it.

Remember that I suggested you shock that drum at the shoulders. Well, it could be you have an exceptionally large rust bond so you might consider laying your soft metal mallet against the drum face between the lugs, starting down by the hub. Then, with a heavy hammer, strike that soft metal hammer a good heavy blow at each five points. That may be enough to break up that rust bond. When you finally do get this off I think you're likely to find the majority of that rust close to the hub but again, in your case it may be across the whole face of the flange.

In any case, don't resort to simply beating this brake drum to death. Be smart and be persistent. Show it a little love and use some finesse. It WILL come off and everything will be downhill from there.

[m3a1]

Here's a short bit on my own adventure with a drum stuck on a hub.... and successfully removing it in the manner I've already described to you. Check it out and you'll be able to see where the rust probably is on your truck. The issue stems from a chamfered edge on the circumference of the center hole of the drum where the hub pokes through. It's just one of those places that is inevitably exposed not only to water but also dirt and it is close to the ground where the ground gives up moisture. All that, and moisture from humid air condensing against cooler metal is the perfect storm for rust to form right there.

http://g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=10 ... =15#p86629

Here's a little more on dealing with those hubs once you get that drum off.

http://g838.org/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=8354&start=90

[Lindsay36551]

I'm sorry guys,
After closer examination of my initial thread, I'm working on a 416 trailer. Sorry!
Both nuts removed
Washer removed
Bearing cage in parts
2 bearing rollers missing
brake cable removed and hub turning Very freely
when brake applied hub will lock up
Torch used was a Mapp's gas
I only did between 2 studs
NO rust evident
I didn't realize I was supposed to do all studs
Should I get o-a torch and heat till red? was afraid of warpage

I'm in no hurry to fix this , so willing to take my time on this one , my own trailer!
This will be my last project for awhile! I'm going to enjoy my toys for a bit!!!!