Electrical issues

[Cisco82]

the safety switch is not installed , it is on the engine at the moment ...

[rickf]

Ok, without the safety switch you will not get fuel pump unless you jump wires in the plug. But you need power, do you have power at the horn? Or at the #25 fuse? Do the lights work? These should all have power with the switch off. If none of the above has power then you have a bad connection at the foot switch. Or the battery cable to the switch is hooked up wrong. Make sure it is coming off of the positive battery terminal and also make sure the batteries are hooked up in series and not in parallel. Positive of one battery to negative of other battery and then the the positive from one battery to the starter switch and negative from the other battery to the body.

[rickf]

If you really have to hear the pump run then jump from #77 to #77A on the safety switch plug and the pump will run whenever the switch is on.

[Cisco82]

I have an update : today i checked again the wire harness , i have power on wire # 5 and i have power on the wire directed to regulator (directly connected to wire #5) but i have NO power on wires #11 ( they seem to be not connected to wire #5 and they seems to be not linked eachothers even if they have the same label).

If i try to put power on wire #11 i see the indicator light working so it seems ok ...

My questions
1 - should be wire #11 directly connected with wire #5 or not? Is anything missing than could provoke no power on wires #11??7

2- Any others wires directly connected to wire #5 that i could test?

Electrical issues make me crazy ... im a mech engeneer and i hate electrical problem lol

Thanks for you support

Francesco

[rickf]

Francesco, I gave you a list of places to check for power that would verify a good #5 wire. It sounds like either a bad connection where the #5 wire is connected or possibly a bad connector on the wire. If there is power on that post that the wire is hooked to but no power at the other end of the wire then there is a problem in the harness. #5 is connected directly to #11 and also to the horn and the lights.

[Cisco82]

Thanks everybody for your help. I solved the problem ... for your info i have a early 60 front harness where there is the wire #10 connecteted with wire #5 and wire #6 .. the wire #10 tag was lost so i supposed it was a ground one since it has a eye connector .

In this version wire #5 is connected to regulator only and wire #10 is connevted with horn , wire #11 ecc..

Thanks again

Francesco

[rickf]

I had to dig out my OLD diagram to find that setup! Glad to see you got it all settled. Wiring is easy once you figure out the basics.

[rickf]

Francesco, I just looked at your restoration pictures you put up and it is looking fantastic but I do have to say I am a bit upset about the wiring. You have been saying all along that you were using a refurbished A1 harness and I can see quite clearly in your picture that the harness in that vehicle is completely made from scratch with weatherpak connectors and grey wire! Now this in itself is not a problem but you were telling me, and the rest of us, that you were working with a stock harness. If you had told me that you made this harness from scratch then I could have probably solved your power issue in the first couple posts. Wiring was, and is, my thing and I am good at it but I need to be given honest information to work with. I think you are working with black wires with rubber Packard push connectors and number tags and you are actually working with something completely different and modern. I am not mad or chastising you, I am just saying you could have saved yourself a LOT of aggravation if you had told us that. NOW I understand why you wanted the fuses. I still would have gone with modern auto reset breakers though since they are hidden behind the dash.

[Cisco82]

rick , as i told you i was working with a A1 harness bought but Perini but he uses to cut all the original connectors, in this way it is easy for him pulling the harness out ... for me, instead, it is a lot of works ! It is a an original early 60 harness with almost all tug but no noccectors ..so i decided to use waterproof connector because it is easier and it is the reason why you see the grey wires at the esnd of the original harness.

Regarding the CB i have no power issues, the reason why i used fuses instead of original CB is the space .. if you joint the old arness with new wire the wire become rigid in that area so it is pretty hard bending wire inside dash .. it is the only reason i decided to use fuses. However i tested the harness with original cb and it works perfectly.

Ihe problem relevant to power is what i said , the original eye end wire 10 tah was missing ... when i understood it was power the problem was fixed

regards

[Cisco82]

i m still struggling on gauges ... all gauges are working good except water gauge.

i checked the resistence of sending unit and it seems it is good , resistence is decreasing if the temperature rises.

i have two questions:

1 - if i check the continuity of the gauge back posts should i find they are connected?

2- if i check the voltage of wire 33 should i find 24 volt (with switch on and gauge disconnected)? i see the continuity on 33 ends (gauge side and sending unit side) but no voltage there even if i switch on