engine

[Mark]

Thanks, I did before, didn't work.Now I just did, it got larger

[rickf]

It depends on how the picture was put in, If it was copied from someone's computer and the resolution is high enough it will enlarge.

[rupert's]

Rupert, where are you from ?

De españa

[rupert's]

Ok guys! I am sorry for the delay in responding and thank you very much for your responses, they are very helpful.

Rick ... putting oil in the cylinders was the first thing I did to not make it spin so dry after so many years and it is the pressure that the engine gives ...

On the other hand, I have started the engine 2 times, very little time, just to see how it starts and how it idles, and everything seems to be fine, if I leave it like this ... What problems can I have? Oil consumption and lack of power? Maybe it works fine? : D: D
It's tempting to clean it up, ride it in the car and not get into more trouble.

If I decide to repair it ... would I have to change piston rings? clean the valves and do the valve adjustment? anything else?

Greetings to all

[rupert's]

Agree that the numbers are a little low, see below what the results on my spare engine were (second page):


vorderseite.jpg

rueckseite.jpg

Hi Horst! those numbers all seem to be close to 120 psi
It is very good pressure, twice what mine has hahaha, if I had that pressure or would not have this conversation ... I would simply assume that everything is fine

[rickf]

Rupert, If you decide you really want to keep this engine then the first thing I would do is adjust the valves and see if that changes the compression. If you have access to a leak down tester that is a great way to find out where the compression is leaking. It could be as simple as stuck rings from sitting and they may free up if you use a quality oil and some top cylinder lube. If it is running on all four cylinders then I would doubt you have any burnt valves. Have you checked the readings again since you have run it? If not then check it again. Also, when checking the compression are you holding the throttle at wide open position? You should prop the throttle wide open and then do the entire compression test on all four cylinders and then reset the throttle. This removes any vacuum from the test results and gives an honest reading.

Here are examples of leak down testers.

https://www.google.com/search?q=engine+ ... e&ie=UTF-8

[rupert's]

Rupert, If you decide you really want to keep this engine then the first thing I would do is adjust the valves and see if that changes the compression. If you have access to a leak down tester that is a great way to find out where the compression is leaking. It could be as simple as stuck rings from sitting and they may free up if you use a quality oil and some top cylinder lube. If it is running on all four cylinders then I would doubt you have any burnt valves. Have you checked the readings again since you have run it? If not then check it again. Also, when checking the compression are you holding the throttle at wide open position? You should prop the throttle wide open and then do the entire compression test on all four cylinders and then reset the throttle. This removes any vacuum from the test results and gives an honest reading.

Here are examples of leak down testers.

https://www.google.com/search?q=engine+ ... e&ie=UTF-8

Ok! Tomorrow I do the valve adjustment, change the oil and check the compression seeing that the carburetor is open

I need to know which gauge to use ... (plate number for valve setting).
a greeting

[rickf]

.015 inch or .38 mm., The setting is supposed to be done hot and running according to the manual but I do mine hot and not running because it hurts my arthritic hands anymore. It works out just fine this way. You could set them cold if you have to and check them later when hot. And pull out all of the spark plugs when you do this so it makes it easier for the engine to spin freely and be sure to leave the ignition switch off.

[rupert's]

.015 inch or .38 mm., The setting is supposed to be done hot and running according to the manual but I do mine hot and not running because it hurts my arthritic hands anymore. It works out just fine this way. You could set them cold if you have to and check them later when hot. And pull out all of the spark plugs when you do this so it makes it easier for the engine to spin freely and be sure to leave the ignition switch off.

Rick! This morning I changed the oil and made the adjustment, I have given 0.40mm to all the valves, I have rechecked the compression and now they are between 94 and 108 Psi !!! It has risen a lot, now I am calmer! Thanks once again for the good advice

I have done it with a cold engine, if I understood correctly you have to do it with a warm engine, when I can keep it running for a while I will do the valve adjustment again.

On the other hand, I have a mechanic who says that the adjustment is made to cold engines
And it also says that it cannot be that the intake and exhaust valves are all at 0.40
I guess modern engines will be different.
a greeting

[Horst]

2 solutions to this. Either find a different mechanic or if that is not possible, show him the data plate on the engine. Clearly says valve leash is identical and measured hot.

[rupert's]

2 solutions to this. Either find a different mechanic or if that is not possible, show him the data plate on the engine. Clearly says valve leash is identical and measured hot.

hahaha ok ok good remedies! the plates are in English and I have not translated them ... I did not think that this information would be there either

[rickf]

As Horst said, it is all on the data plate on the side of the engine. The valves being a little loose is better than too tight and will get you up and running. I think the main issue was probably rust in the cylinders and will get better over time as the rings seat back in. Be sure to change the oil a couple of times in short order to flush out all of the contaminates. I would put on a new filter after the first change and then leave that filter on for the second change and a new one on the third change. After that you should be good to go for normal oil change intervals. On these vehicles that is usually once a year unless you do a lot of driving. If you have never set valves with an engine running it is best that you get it hot and then do it with it off. Setting it running takes a certain "feel" to know when it is right. You can definitely try it and check them again when it is off. If they are very close then you got it right and you are now a better mechanic than the guy who is giving you the bad advice!

[rupert's]

Okay, I'm going to follow these steps for oil changes, the first filter is already clear this haha after 7 years I couldn't leave it there.
When I finish it I will upload an image For now I want to make the engine look nice ...
I have to clean it in depth and paint it, also change the pulleys of the A1 by A2 and change the alternator as we talked about before, check the clutch, change valve, paint the gearbox and put everything in the mutt, I still have work hehe

[rickf]

Just so you know the belts are different for the A1 pulleys. You could use the A2 pulleys but you might have issues with it not charging at idle since the generator will be turning slower.

[rupert's]

I think I have it under control. I have the 3 pulleys for A2 and I also have the 3 new belts for A2 ... I guess I should have no problems