engine

[Mark]

When you turn on the head lights, the turn signal lights come on too, when you use one, it flashes, the other one don't as you are not turning that way. When headlights are not on, it is in the service position

[rickf]

I don't have an A2 but I think it is like most other vehicles here. When the headlight's are on the parking lights are also on. Then when the turn signal flashes the turn signal is a separate and brighter bulb flashing while the running light stays on.

[rupert's]

Ok then everything is correct. I wanted to make sure

[rupert's]

Hello to all colleagues! I have a new query for you, is there a procedure to adjust the clutch? I have adjusted it twice and after walking 300 or 400 meters the first gear does not go in, the rest does but the 1 does not.
The last time I adjusted it, it took me a lot of work to adjust it and even so it seems that it has not turned out well, maybe I am doing it wrong, any recommendations?
Greetings to all and thanks in advance!

[rickf]

Does first gear grind going in? And are you moving when trying to put it in first? If it is not grinding and you are sitting still then the clutch is working, the gears are just not lined up. Pull it back to second and then back to first and that movement in the gears should have aligned first gear. If you are moving you have to remember that first gear is not synchronized and it will grind. The rest of the gears are synchronized. Does it go into reverse ok? If so again, the clutch is good. There should be at least an inch of free play from the top of the pedal travel to where you feel it start to engage the clutch. I find this is a personal thing and I prefer to set mine at a certain distance from the floor where it engages. You just do not want it to be so high that the clutch slips when fully out. You have to have that free play at the top.

[Mark]

[img][M151-Clutch-Rod.png](https://postimg.cc/SnFySmwW)/img]
To adjust free play, you have turn the rod in I think?

[rupert's]

Does first gear grind going in? And are you moving when trying to put it in first? If it is not grinding and you are sitting still then the clutch is working, the gears are just not lined up. Pull it back to second and then back to first and that movement in the gears should have aligned first gear. If you are moving you have to remember that first gear is not synchronized and it will grind. The rest of the gears are synchronized. Does it go into reverse ok? If so again, the clutch is good. There should be at least an inch of free play from the top of the pedal travel to where you feel it start to engage the clutch. I find this is a personal thing and I prefer to set mine at a certain distance from the floor where it engages. You just do not want it to be so high that the clutch slips when fully out. You have to have that free play at the top.

Got it, Rickf, I remember 2,3,4 going in and going backwards too. First no, there is no strange noise in the clutch, on Saturday I will ride in 2 and then I try to put 1 and I will also check the distance of the pedal.
One more time ... Thank you very much Rickf

[img][M151-Clutch-Rod.png](https://postimg.cc/SnFySmwW)/img]
To adjust free play, you have turn the rod in I think?

ok Mark thanks!

[rickf]

Don't ride in second and try first, if it will not go into first, then pull it back into second and then up to first, all without moving the vehicle. If the vehicle is moving at all it will grind trying to get it into first. But like I said, if it is not grinding just sitting there and trying to get it into first then it is not the clutch, it is probably just normal gears not meshing until something moves just a hair. On mine reverse will do that often. Sometimes I have to let the clutch out to get the gears moving and push it back in and give the shifter a shove. I have had times where I have actually had to move the vehicle just a hair in another gear to get it into reverse or first. Just the nature of the beast.

[rupert's]

Don't ride in second and try first, if it will not go into first, then pull it back into second and then up to first, all without moving the vehicle. If the vehicle is moving at all it will grind trying to get it into first. But like I said, if it is not grinding just sitting there and trying to get it into first then it is not the clutch, it is probably just normal gears not meshing until something moves just a hair. On mine reverse will do that often. Sometimes I have to let the clutch out to get the gears moving and push it back in and give the shifter a shove. I have had times where I have actually had to move the vehicle just a hair in another gear to get it into reverse or first. Just the nature of the beast.

Rickf, once again, you were right, 1st gear goes back in, when standing still it won't go, I walked 2 meters backwards, I stopped and went 1st gear. Anyway I have to adjust the clutch because sometimes the gears scratch, and I notice on the pedal that it does not work quite well because the first pedal section does nothing on the clutch, it does all the effect at the end.
After stepping on the pedal, when I lift my foot a single centimeter, the car is already moving, and from the middle of the pedal travel to the top, the pedal does nothing, you can see that this half is loose, tomorrow I start with it.
a greeting

[rickf]

Yes, It is not fully disengaging, You need to lengthen the rod at least a couple turns. That might help with the first gear also. I never measured mine but I would guess I am coming about an inch (25mm) off the floor before it starts grabbing. The main thing is to make sure it is not too far out, you have to have free play at the top of the pedal so it does not slip under load.

[rupert's]

2 laps was the right measure! now the clutch is in the perfect place!
After this I went for a little walk (very small) and I saw the marker on the battery charger, it is in the green strip but almost in the red, is it okay? or should I do something? faster loads more? batteries are new.

marcador alternador_opt.jpg

I also have a problem with the engine idling, it is not stable, and it also changes throttle very frequently. for example .... I adjust the idle with the screw of the gasoline mixture of the carburetor, it remains an "acceptable" idle but if I go out for a small turn when I stop, the idle is no longer stable, or it is more accelerated, or it has lowered the revolutions and stops ... maybe I stop it, start the engine and the idle has changed again, I go crazy!
I think the carburetor is to blame. I have seen that it has a screw at the bottom and a cover on the side. Can the bowl be drained and cleaned on either side? Do you think I should open it and do a thorough cleaning? In that case, will I need a gasket kit? a greeting

[rickf]

There is a drain on the bottom of the carb, it is a plug, not a screw. The screw is the emulsion jet. The cover on the side is the accelerator pump and as long as it is working you want to leave that alone. There are two adjustments you can make on that carb, idle speed and idle mixture. Idle speed screw is on the linkage and moves with the throttle. Idle mixture is in the mounting flange where the carb mounts to the intake manifold. You need to use the idle speed screw to bring the idle speed down to a normal slow idle speed and then you screw the mixture screw in until the motor stumbles and bit and then slowly out until it stumbles a bit and then go halfway between those two points. You should have a nice smooth idle at this point. If you have the internal mixture screw where you need a very small screwdriver to do the adjustment then yes, it can change while driving but this usually takes many miles. the way to stop it from moving is to steal your wifes very expensive fingernail polish and put a drop in there on the screw. Just a small drop and that will lock the threads from moving on there own but you will still be able to move it if you have to. And no, it does not have to be the expensive stuff.

If none of that works you may have a vacuum leak at the manifold but try this first.

[Horst]

you can drain the carburetor bowl by screwing out the mentioned plug. You should catch the fuel to check for the amount of dirt coming out. But unless the carburetor is very dirty, it will not help much, but it also will not hurt.

You are adjusting the idle wrong, follow Rick's procedure.

The charging voltage is too high, you want the needle at the white mark in the green segment of the gauge. Too high of a voltage will hurt the batteries. To adjust, there is a potentiometer behind the hex screw at the alternator, same place where the cables are fastened. Remove the hex plug and adjust the voltage. You might want to double check with a voltmeter, typically on a 24V battery installation you have 28V charging voltage (but not more)

[Hambone]

I'm with Horst, definitely check your output before you start adjusting.

[rickf]

Always check the voltage at the batteries BEFORE making adjustments! These gauges are just there for general guidance and are usually not all that accurate. If the voltmeter tells you that you have 28 volts at high idle then you are good to go.