engine

[rickf]

Using the A2 pulleys on the A1 25 amp generator will work but it spins the generator a little slower so it is not going to charge at idle. Once you are driving down the road it will be charging but slow engine speeds could be an issue.

[acudanut]

Idle it a little higher, Maybe 1000 rpm ?

[rupert's]

Using the A2 pulleys on the A1 25 amp generator will work but it spins the generator a little slower so it is not going to charge at idle. Once you are driving down the road it will be charging but slow engine speeds could be an issue.

Rickf! Al final hice caso de vuestros consejos y compré el alternador de 60A de A2, de este modo tengo el alternador con las poleas y correas... todo de A2 (que yo sepa)

[rickf]

No podía recordar qué vehículo o sistema tenías, así que seguí lo que estabas diciendo, pero ahora lo recuerdo. ¿Tienes el A1 con el arnés A2, correcto? Si ese es el caso, entonces sí, esto será mucho mejor en cuanto a simplificar el cableado.

I tried to do all of that from memory and I got most of it right but my Spanish spelling is WAY off! I am best off speaking English and using a translator!

[rupert's]

No podía recordar qué vehículo o sistema tenías, así que seguí lo que estabas diciendo, pero ahora lo recuerdo. ¿Tienes el A1 con el arnés A2, correcto? Si ese es el caso, entonces sí, esto será mucho mejor en cuanto a simplificar el cableado.

I tried to do all of that from memory and I got most of it right but my Spanish spelling is WAY off! I am best off speaking English and using a translator!

rickf! Do you Know Spanish !! everything is perfectly understood but anyway I don't mind using the translator hehe although sometimes it is not very clear with the translations.

In response to your question ... I am restoring an A2, my engine was not repaired and I bought an A1 engine that I am converting to A2.

On the other hand, this weekend I have been cleaning the engine to paint it black, I have removed the manifolds and I have found the intake valves full of carbon, Before doing the valve adjustment they were at 0.20mm instead 040mm, I think that is why the intake valves have carbon ...

I think the most appropriate thing is that next weekend I dedicate it to lifting the cylinder head, cleaning the valves and hitting it with emery paste and reassembling everything ... What is the tightening torque that I have to give to the cylinder head bolts?

Cheers!

[Horst]

Bildschirmfoto 2020-11-15 um 14.36.34.png

[rupert's]

Bildschirmfoto 2020-11-15 um 14.36.34.png

How fast Horst! thanks !!

[rupert's]

The heavy of the forum asks again ....

And the question is ... Here should be the water temperature sensor ... The sensor is missing and is this a plug?

I'm also thinking that being an A1 motor maybe it doesn't have a rubber connection like the rest of the wiring, but rather I have to put a cable with a terminal attached with the nut that is seen in the image. I don't know how the translator will translate this.

I have searched the internet but I always see a plug with the rubber protector

In short ... do I have something there? or should I buy the sensor?

[rickf]

That is the sender but the end has been broken off of it.

After enlarging the pic I see a nut on there and I am wondering if someone put a civilian sender in there? There is no threaded piece coming out past the nut so it still looks broken to me.

[Mr. Recovery]

That is the sender but the end has been broken off of it.

After enlarging the pic I see a nut on there and I am wondering if someone put a civilian sender in there? There is no threaded piece coming out past the nut so it still looks broken to me.

The nut and a flat washer would have held the rubber boot on the center post.

dan-2beers.jpg

[rickf]

Would have had to have held the metal connector also.

[rupert's]

It seems that the temperature sensor is there, I have soldered the tip of the connection that was missing, I think it works because its resistance measured with the multimeter varies with the water temperature, but I have not been able to test it well because the clock on the dashboard does not works. I will have to buy a new one.

When I started to restore the mutt I didn't have any conduit and I am very busy about all the pipes that I have to put.
I'm trying to find out where I have to put the fuel return, in the images I search online I see that the return is in a nut that my carburetor has, but I can't connect anything there ... is there another way?

Let's remember ... I have an A2 but the engine is from A1 and I have converted it to A2, (alternator and pulleys) but the carburetor will be from A1.

Maybe I need this pipe?
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 18111.html
or this one?
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 40895.html

Greetings colleagues

[muttguru]

Rupert.....
look at these two pictures and study them carefully. They are from the TM9-2320-218-20P dated 1978. If you cannot see them clearly, email me directly and I will send the pages directly to your email address.





You will need items 8, 9, 22, 23. You may also need item 15...the fuel return pipe if it is missing from your vehicle.

Item 8 is the same pipe as advertised by Truckparts Trading.... ending 8111, NOT 0895.

Ken

[rupert's]

Rupert.....
look at these two pictures and study them carefully. They are from the TM9-2320-218-20P dated 1978. If you cannot see them clearly, email me directly and I will send the pages directly to your email address.





You will need items 8, 9, 22, 23. You may also need item 15...the fuel return pipe if it is missing from your vehicle.

Item 8 is the same pipe as advertised by Truckparts Trading.... ending 8111, NOT 0895.

Ken

Ok, I need the 8, 22 and 23 and luckily they are all on the same website but ... something does not fit me, the number 8 has a male thread at both ends, and the return pipe that is in the mutt is also male, it should be female to be threaded.
In this image on page 2 you can see
https://www.g838.org/download/file.php? ... &mode=view
https://webwinkel.truckpartstrading.nl/ ... 18111.html

Ok, I need the 8, 22 and 23 and luckily they are all on the same website but ... something does not fit me, the number 8 has a male thread at both ends, and the return pipe that is in the mutt is also male, it should be female to be threaded.
In this image on page 2 you can see

Thanks ken for your quick reply

[Horst]

don't be surprised if part 22 does not fit on your carburetor. It is not that you can't screw it into the carb, it is that fuel will not flow. The carburetor affected is the 12848 series, any later carb can be used on A1 or A2.

The difference is that the A1 carburetor is using an internal fuel filter whereas at the same location in an A2 the return line is connected. The A2 carburetor uses an external fuel filter in front of the carburetor. Never ever screw this into the carburetor as it can split the carb body. I can see from your picture above that this was however done. You probably want to correct that and use the correct brass fitting between the filter and the carb body, part 24. The fuel filter uses a tapered thread, the brass fitting is designed for that, the carburetor body will crack. (Don't ask me how I know!)
Unfortunately in a 12848 carburetor the position of the drilling for the fuel flow is in a higher position and will be blocked once you screw in part 22.