Max Speed 35 mph

[Husker]

No luck On the A carb. test drive to operating temp the carb floods maybe? It idles amazing not much engine vibration etc But when at operating temp if you give it gas the engine dies.... the float setup is 9/32nds on the dot and everything is clean only thing I really futz with is the second part of the float setting

[rickf]

You give it the gas and the engine dies, As in as soon as you hit the gas it dies and if you let off it comes back to life? If you slowly add gas will it slowly rev up? If so the accelerator pump is bad, or the spring is on the wrong side of the diaphragm. The spring should be on the outside of the diaphragm against the cover. One other thing could affect it and that is a bad power valve, once you start building venturi vacuum it pulls gas directly from the accelerator pump. Did you check the power valve spring when you were in there?

[Husker]

The power valve is right up against the accelerator diaphragm right? The first time I installed the A carb I had it’s original valve there that was very gumed and I had rodded it out with safety wire and taken it apart. It is currently running on the B carbs much cleaner power valve. I currently have the diaphragm spring on the cover side not the bowl side.

So when your slowly push the throttle in it will accelerate pretty well
If you just press it even slightly fast it will struggle ad die....

I even replaced the coil hoping it was a bad spark or distributor issue but no change at all on that end. I have been running a Swiss controls module since I have owned the jeep

Spark plugs a black and sooty but dry enough not gassy

[Husker]

Gave my plugs a look and they are AER3S and blue crown 23Bs...they cross reference to an auto lite 2384......... not 2245.......... so probably not good then

[rickf]

So you have two issues going on, plugs that are out of god only knows what with a heat range that is ???????????????? And an accelerator pump that sounds like it is not working for some reason. Black and fuzzy on the plugs means they are probably carbon fouled. There is not much more I can tell you about the carbs without actually seeing them. The 13660, 660A and 660B are for all intents and purposes the same. The position of the idle mixture screw flat is higher on the A but other than that internally they are all the same. You should NEVER rod out any passage in a carburetor! Those orifices are drilled to the thousandth and are made of aluminum. Any change in size or shape can have a drastic affect on the way it performs. The power valve is a one way valve and it is not possible to rod it out, if you got a rod through it then it was either not the correct part or it was destroyed. I am also confused about which is which because you keep switching back and forth on the carbs, or you are switching parts or just descriptions but I am confused.

[Husker]

So the plugs I have have a 1/2 inch length vs the 3/8 length of the correct plugs
My plugs heat rating is 19 vs the 2245s having a heat rating of 17 per the auto lite charts


I’m sorry rick I’m spent the entire day messing with it to no avail
I have been trying to use the 660A carb this whole time which is the one I rebuilt
The only thing I “rodded” out was the brass power bit in the accelerator diaphragm and I used soft bendy safety wire to do it.

I’m going to go back to my original 660B carb that I flushed out the idle passage on tomorrow and start over..... I will clean all the carbon off the plugs I wonder why a “hotter” plug would fowl so fast or maybe part of this comes down to an electrical issue.

[rickf]

I can't really say on the plugs other than what are they designed to be in? If they are designed to be in an aluminum air cooled engine then the hotter heat range means nothing when you put them in an engine with a steel water cooled head that never gets over 160 degrees. Try the other carb and if you are having the same issues with that one you should start looking at the tune up from the bottom up again.

[Husker]

Yep.....
I ordered 2245 plugs as well just to kill another variable

[rickf]

One thing that will kill plugs fast and permanently is gas fouling so try to keep that from happening. Flooding it out once in a while is not harmful but running it rich to the point of stalling is. I have some gas fouled plugs that I am going to try throwing in the the ultrasonic cleaner and see if that will do anything. They are no good as it is so nothing to lose.

[m3a1]

Gonna jump in here for a moment (yes, I have been lurking) and ask if you have actually physically inspected your distributor's mechanical advance to ensure that it is also moving freely.

Cheers,
TJ

[Husker]

Yea the mechanical advance was striped and lubricated last year when I first got the engine together and running
The weights were frozen and I was getting backfires during the timing trying to do the advance test.

When I did the timing a few days ago it marched away fine just like before

[Husker]

Here is the chart off of the champion site the plugs I have are actually colder so they would foul faster I would assume. I think that might be why it drove fine in the begining and then as I messed with the carbs it just got worse and worse as more carbon built up on them? I don’t know not very knowledgeable about this portion.

[Husker]

Does not! Help that I have all different plugs
2 are 2344s and 2 are 2384.....
all bought from SECO listed as M151 plugs about 3 years ago

[Husker]

Update plugs cleaned
Original 660B carb installed with new diaphragm

Engine starts and runs accelerates most of the time
Ran 2 static runs at 1500 rpm for the first one ran for 15 minutes and then quit but restarted easy
Second test at 1000 ran for a while until it started to bog down (could have been the hand throttle just moving itself in. And it went to idle

After the second test engine idled for a bit and I attempted to manually press down the accelerator diaphragm rapidly
Both times resulted in bogging and second time the engine quit

#1 Spark plug Was inspected after each test (for what it’s worth lol) and it was very clean each time no carbon build up like the attempts to run the other carb or the idle speed tuning

It seems like the issues is still in the accelerator pump of the carb which I just don’t understand what needs to be fixed in it after going though it

[Husker]

I might have been doing all of this backwards since the start.........

What is the number 1 spark plug the one at the radiator or the one at the firewall.......

I have been using the radiator side as the #1 for everything this go around which maybe the cause of all my troubles

The -20 timing section calls the firewall side the #1 but I swore it was the other way around.... everything is hooked up properly wires etc and clearly it is running

But I should I redo the valve lash even though I did both the pre Set lash and the running lash to the right spec to all the valves?

This the set up I have been using for all of the tuning to the engine I was doing for both my tac and timing light.....