Lube time and issues

[Cav Trooper]

I decided it was time to do some simple PM and change diff and trans oil and lube the drive and axle shafts. I have a friend with a very nice shop and a lift that he graciously allows me to use. I found a 2 gal. container of Ford tractor differential 90 wt. GL1 and Tractor Supply and a couple of tubes of Shell red axle/bearing grease and headed out. Temp outside is 55 deg. First time I've noticed the temp gauge swing from 150ish to 120 and back after about 5 miles driving. I have a new 160 deg tstat last year in it so I assume it's just cold enough that the tstat keeps closing and opening. The gauge swings were about 15 to 20 seconds apart. I've never seen that before but haven't drive in cooler weather with it either. That was the only strange thing on the trip and the 151 ran ok up to 55 for a 2 or 3 mile stretch. Should I swap out the tstat for a hotter one?
Now, drained all the fluids and refilled, all new drain plug gaskets, no problem. Started greasing all the ujoints and could not get the grease gun chuck to pop off one zerk and ended up breaking the zerk off. On same axle, the other ujoint zerk would not let loose either and ended up pulling it out of the ujoint. I was able to salvage the zerk and push it back in but it's not very tight. I've never run into pressed in zerks before. The outer rear axles have zerks that I can't get the grease gun on so I'll have to try the needle. I'm old school and all were always tapped and threaded in. Now I'll probably have to replace the ujoint or just buy another axle. Anyone have pn's for the ujoints possibly from NAPA? How about pn for axles? Are all axles same length on all versions for the 151? This one is right front.
Thanks
CT

[Fil Bonica]

There really are no civy ujoints.
Press in a new zerk and be done with it.
Always use a needle fitting when U grease things.
If you have trouble passing grease and want to save a buck , break it down and clean the passages then reassemble.
Years ago Ken printed a tutorial on just this topic.
Hope this helps

FilBonica

[Fil Bonica]

Pm me for axles .
Fil Bonica

[Cobra5]

There is no civilian equivalent for the U joints. Most of the parts vendors have u joints just try and find an NOS one instead of the cheap imports. I've never ran across a push in zerk on these vehicles. Perhaps it was changed and that a cheap import part. You could remove the U joint and tap the zerk hole. if that's successful, remove the bearing caps and flush out the u-joint to remove the old grease and metal shavings. Put it back together, reinstall and grease it. Worse case is you'll have to replace the U joint if it doesn't work.
As far as the temp issue, it could be a loose ground for the gauge, the connection at the temp sensor or the gauge itself. if you have an infrared thermometer get the vehicle to normal operating temperature and take readings before and after the thermostat housing, upper and lower radiator hoses. This will give you a temp range of where its operating.

[acudanut]

What does a needle look like to grease the zert's look like ? I can't grease a few of them without dropping the drive shafts. No room.

[Surveyor]

I have two. A larger one for doing fittings. The smaller one I use for wheel bearings. I think I got both at local O'reilly's. I think the big one is PN 5803 although mine has a rubber tip while online pic does not. Smaller is PN W54213.

[raymond]

Here is what I use. It is a cheap mini grease gun from Wallyworld. Uses those mini grease tubes. It is fit with a Lincoln grease needle and an extension pipe. It is also useful for the u joints on a hydrostat tractor. Especially the ones on the main drive shaft between the engine and the hydrostat that always turn when the engine is running, regardless of whether you are moving or not. You use the needle to push in on the little ball on the grease zerk.

[Cav Trooper]

I may just buy a complete axle and install and try the rebuild on the u-joints and reassemble as a spare. I'm not sure I like the press fit zerks and I have to drill out the broken off stem on one. I have all the tools to drill and tap correct size for threaded. Another winter project. I'll see if I can borrow an infrared thermometer just to check. Radiator is not purging when stopped and at a stable level on coolant. The temp thing just started, ok all summer when hot out, no overheat. This is first time driving it in this cool weather. New radiator cap, 160 deg tstat, gauge and sensor last year. No radiator leaks. No other gauges acting up. I do have a needle, just didn't have it with me. All of the rest of the zerks popped free, just both u-joints on one axle.
Thanks
CT

[acudanut]

I don't understand how that needle can press grease into the Grease Zerts ?

[raymond]

I don't understand how that needle can press grease into the Grease Zerts ?

The needle has a hole in the end. You press it hard against the little ball on a grease zerk, pushing in the little ball while doing so. You keep pressing against the grease zerk to create a seal whilst pumping the grease into the grease zerk.

Trust me, it works and mine has worked for the 22 years I have owned my M151. It was one of the first things I bought for it after seeing how hard it was to get a standard grease gun fitting on the axle u joints. And adding the extra length of pipe made it a lot easier to reach into hard to reach places.

[rickf]

I have used the same one as Raymond for more years than I can remember on all kinds of vehicles. It does work.The ones with the rubber tips do not work, they just do not seal.

[muttguru]

I have used the same one as Raymond for more years than I can remember on all kinds of vehicles. It does work.The ones with the rubber tips do not work, they just do not seal.

I bought this one from the States years ago. It works very well but it didn't at the start. The reason was that the old grease in the "cross" of the u-joints was hardened to a cement-like paste and the needle was unable to force fresh grease into the joint, even though I'd already freed-up the ball-bearing in the zerk. Unless you are SURE that the joint will accept fresh grease, it's best to remove and CAREFULLY dismantle the joint, then clean out the channels in the cross with a pipe cleaner. I know it sounds like a pain to dismantle all 12 joints but believe me, it will make life so much easier....mainly because the effort involved will ensure that you remember to lube the joints at the specified intervals !



Ken

[m3a1]

Ken DOES need to get out more. That said, this is what it may take to get more life out of these hard-to-find U joints. I'd say he's giving very sensible advice.

Cheers,
TJ

[acudanut]

Sounds good. I will buy one. ! Cheers

[raymond]

I grease my u joints once a year, which for me, is only a couple hundred miles.

Remember, the lube orders on these vehicles, and the intervals specified, are minimums.
You can (and probably should) grease the u joints (much) more often.