New Clutch problem

[Auzziemutt]

After replacing the clutch and transmission with NOS parts from Red River my A2 is back on the road but there is a problem. I cannot select first gear or reverse with the motor running unless I select a synchromesh gear first then quickly slip it into gear ,usually !st. I know the clutch is out of adjustment but I have rotated the clutch adjusting shaft so much I'm afraid I might run out of thread in the bellhousing part . Does this rod have a knob or nut or something to stop it falling out of the thrust bearing arm at maximum adjustment. If that happened I would have to remove the whole drive train again to re attach it, I think. The old clutch plate was of the usual fibre brake lining type and riveted on but the new one has about six copper colored metal medallions either side which my son says is a button clutch . All new to me. Is this a normal NOS clutch plate now? If I keep rotating the clutch adjusting rod counter clockwise to lengthen it am I in trouble sooner or later. Please help.

[rickf]

You have a couple questions here. The clutch is what is called a puck clutch and it is the normal clutch for an A2. Most people prefer the old style clutch for normal street driving since it is not as aggressive but this will work fine one you get used to it. In relation to the adjustment. Yes, you can run the adjustment right off the end of the rod but on a new clutch this would not be normal as long as everything was put together correctly. How much free play do you have as you push the pedal down by hand before it gets hard to push? You should have roughly 2-3 inches. Is it engaging right off of the floor or does it come up several inches before it engages? If you take the bell housing cover off the bottom you can see up in there and see if you are running out of adjustment.

[Auzziemutt]

Rick thanks for the info, I have removed the bell housing cover and the clutch adjustment rod has about 5/8 of on inch of thread left so more adjustment is possible. I also saw there is a gap of about 1/16 of an inch between the clutch plate and the flywheel with the clutch pedal depressed so I don't see why the gears are still spinning when I try to engage first or reverse. The throw-out bearing has ample gap. The clutch pedal has 1 1/2 inch freeplay but I forgot to measure how much movement off the floor before moving off. A bit hard as the Mutt is jacked up a lot on one side, no hoist. Is 1/16 th inch enough clutch/ flywheel gap. Any more ideas Rick and thanks so far.

[svramselaar]

hi

if you are unther the mutt you can see the clutchplate at the side
depress the clutch with a piece of wood to hold the pedal down
out of gear engine not running
now you can try with a schrewdriver if the plate is loose and can be turn over
if not, it come`s not free enough
next take the wood away
put the release bearing close to the three fingers hold the pedal there with the wood
take feeler gage and adjust the fingers all the same with the bold and nut see below
try agian if the clutch come`s free

https://olive-drab.com/images/clutch_specs_7in.gif

http://www.surfacezero.com/g503/data/50 ... stment.jpg

good luck

george

[muttguru]

I hate to ask this question, but you did ensure that you installed the clutch disk the right way round?
It will go on either way, but there's only one CORRECT way......

it should be fitted with the larger centre boss facing the transmission. It won't work the other way !
Ken

[Auzziemutt]

Yes thanks Ken that was one thing I made very sure of, Col

[Auzziemutt]

After all your advice the new clutch and gearbox are working perfectly. Thanks for your help.