Transmission rebuild/cleaning

[Husker]

So my original plan was to clean the transmission complete with solvents and mineral spirits. The gears were mucky but in good shape. Upon the first pour it all flowed out the output shafts........

My questions are

1 was this a dumb idea from the start?

2 should I plug it and try again? If so how?

3 should I bring it to a trans shop to clean and reassemble it?


Thanks I have never taken apart a trans before and this one is rather simple compared to others. I will also be striping a cleaning my engine. Nothing is broken or heavily worn it's just dirty and has some rust. Any tips would be gladly appreciated I've got the head off right now and need to clean the water jacket. I also need to figure out if I have a "heavy duty" head.

[rickf]

Are you planning to pull the shafts and gears to clean it? Are you aware that the bearings are not sealed? They are individual rollers and they are ALL going to end up in the bottom of the case when you take it apart. It is real fun getting them all in their respective positions and getting them to stay there while putting the shafts back in. And I don't know how may standard tranny's you have done but I will tell you that getting this one apart is no picnic. Getting the countershaft out is a VERY tight squeeze and you will most likely lose skin and blood. I did on every one I have done.

If all you are doing is cleaning it then put the output yokes back on and fill it with solvent or diesel fuel and turn the input shaft and out put shafts and then drain it. That should clean it out. Be aware that you will never get all of the solvent out on the first try so after you fill it with gear oil and run it a few miles be sure to change the gear oil.

[Husker]

I have never taken one apart and I was hoping not to I just want to clean it

So put the output yokes back on? Do they have seals?

My jeep didn't include drive shafts so I will have to buy some


Thanks for the quick reply I'll let you know how it goes

[199th mp]

i took mine to a shop that only did bench repairs. all it needed was seals and gaskets. they took care of all that, and painted it black for me. i installed it and it ran great from then on. never an ounce of trouble.

[rickf]

Seals should be in the transmission but I would plan on replacing them.

[Horst]

if you plan to disassemble it, better do it by the book. Or you end up as Rick describes. Getting it apart is easy but you need at least one tool to re-install the rollers. However it is just a rod of the right length and diameter. I would replace ALL seals while you are in there. Depending on the surface of the output jokes and the brake drum, you will have to buy the seals with the wear sleeves. At most part places you only will get those anyway.

[Husker]

I'm trying my best to not take it apart

The rear seal must be missing or is trash
I pour in solvent and it leaks right out the transfer case lower seal

I'm guessing I have to take the transfer case off to get at the seal which I have no idea how to do

[rickf]

The transfer case is part of transmission and the seals are not that hard. The rear one is very easy since it is in it's own carrier and the carrier can be removed and the seal replaced on the bench. The front output seal can be a challenge getting it out but it does come out. You have to take your time and be sure not to gouge the side of the bore. The new seals will come with wear sleeve that need to be pressed onto the yokes and yes you do have to use them if they come with the seal kit since the seals are sized to fit them. Since you have it out of the vehicle put the whole kit in, it is a LOT easier when it is out then it is when it is in the vehicle. The front seal is extremely hard to get to in the vehicle. It pays to get new yokes and when you install them put them om slowly since there is a pressed in plug in the yoke and if you force it on too fast the air pressure will pop out that plug and it will leak oil past the splines. I have an old yoke without the plug and I use that to get the seals started straight. Put the seal on the yoke and slide the yoke on the output shaft until the seal engages the case, not tap the yoke lightly with a block of wood and a hammer and it will push the seal in straight. It will not go in all the way because the yoke will bottom out in the transmission but at least it gets it started straight and that is the hardest part.

[Horst]

I'm trying my best to not take it apart

The rear seal must be missing or is trash
I pour in solvent and it leaks right out the transfer case lower seal

I'm guessing I have to take the transfer case off to get at the seal which I have no idea how to do

That sounds like you did not look in the TM. They are super easy to read and free.

[Husker]

I read though most of the transmission portion of it but I think I am only reading the -20 which doesn't get down to that level I will look though the 34 manual

[m3a1]

Hang in there, Husker! If you manage to post some pics I think you'll find you'll have all the help you need. A pic is worth a thousand words.

[rickf]

I have also found the 34P to be helpful since it shows breakdown pictures. That can give you an idea of how thing fit together.

[Husker]

Transmission is on pause for now until I get the seals and gaskets in the mail

[Husker]

[img][url=http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/Robin ... E-CE1E[img]

[Husker]

Finally figured that out

This is a picture of the trans when I first opened it
There is very little rust on it just a lot of goop and old oil