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troubleshooter [G838 Wiki]
 

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troubleshooter 2013/10/26 05:33 current
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 +__**Troubleshooting your M151A2**__
 +**Was running recently - will not start**
 +
 +  *Changed anything? - Backtrack and uninstall               
 +  *Adjusted anything? - Backtrack and re-adjust
 +  *Replaced anything? - Backtrack and re-install old part
 +
 +Anything unusual occurred? (ex- Ignition left on?, Boiled over? Sudden drop in oil pressure?). Likely effects - coil fused, fuel in oil, etc.
 +
 +If NO -
 +  *Does engine crank?
 +    *No? = Batteries flat / Terminal(s) loose or corroded / Poor earth connection battery to body / Starter dead.
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Fuel in tank?
 +    *No? = Fill up.
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Disconnect fuel-line at carburetor then crank engine. Does fuel spurt from feed pipe?
 +    *No? = Fuel pump diaphragm faulty / Pump operating arm broken / Fuel pipes collapsed-crushed-blocked / Tank clogged / Fuel Tank cap incorrect type / Vent-valve in fuel tank cap in closed position or faulty (pre emission-control tanks).
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Remove in-line filter. Blow filter from threaded end. Reinstall and reconnect pipe. Crank engine. Does it start?
 +    *Yes? = Good to Go!
 +    *No? = Remove one spark-plug lead at plug end. Remove plug from engine. Re-attach plug to spark-plug lead. Hold plug against engine with insulated pliers. Crank engine with ignition on. Spark at plug?
 +      *No? = Coil failure / Points closed-dirty / Solid State module failed / Rotor loose / Towers in cap corroded / Contact spring and carbon contact in centre of inner cap missing - damaged / Faulty or failed in-line capacitor / No power to distributor / Batteries too low to provide sufficient power to coil.
 +      *Yes? Next
 +  *Remove valve cover and crank engine. All valves operating?
 +    *No? = Check for loose push-rods / Bent push-rods /  Dislocated push-rods / Cam lobe damage.
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Check valve clearance (0.014). Valve clearances ok?
 +    *No? = Adjust.
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Remove all plugs and crank engine. Check compression with gauge. Each cylinder should be between 135 to 145 PSI. Difference between the lowest and highest readings of any cylinder should not exceed 25 PSI. Lowest acceptable figure of any cylinder is 85 PSI. All cylinders within range?
 +    *No? = Worn piston rings / Burned valves / Head gasket blown between cylinders.
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Locate timing mark on crank pulley. Line up timing mark with pointer on engine block by turning pulley clockwise. Valves 1 & 2 closed?
 +    *No? = Turn crank 1 full turn clockwise
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Remove distributor cap. Does Rotor tip point to tower segment for No.1 plug lead?.
 +    *No? = Slacken retaining bolt and adjust distributor body for approximate alignment.
 +  *Does Rotor tip NOW point to tower segment for No.1 plug lead?
 +    *No? = If distributor rotor points to tower segment for #4 plug lead, then distributor has been installed 180 degrees out. Remove Distributor, rotate shaft 180 degrees, re-insert Distributor.
 +  *Does Rotor tip NOW point to tower segment for No.1 plug lead?
 +    *No? = Re-arrange plug leads in distributor to match correct firing order  (1-3-4-2)
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Replace spark plugs and valve cover. Replace distributor cap. Attempt re-start. Started?
 +    *Yes? = Good to Go!
 +    *No? = Locate carburetor hexagonal drain bolt (on bottom of carburetor fuel bowl). Remove hexagonal bolt to flush fuel / dirt from carburetor. Did fuel flush from carburetor bowl?
 +    *No? = Carburetor inlet valve stuck / Float stuck
 +    *Yes? = Next
 +  *Dry up any spilled fuel. Attempt re-start. Started?
 +    *Yes? = Good to Go!
 +    *No? = Check vent-line connections especially where PCV valve screws into inlet manifold (hairline cracks). Remove and service carburetor. Check float level. Check for blocked jets. Check for sticking inlet needle valve.
 +
 +If these tips don't help, ask the forum.
 
troubleshooter.txt · Last modified: 2013/10/26 05:33 (external edit)
 
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