head gasket

[mallard]

Thanks Rick, it looks like the trans mounts with the double nuts on the bolts was wrong so it looks like a set of motor mounts would good also. I also noticed the rear lifting eye is busted off so I'm going to put a new lifting eye in tonight. also will try an impact and see if the engine mounting bolts will buzz loose, if not I guess i'll just cut them off with a sawzall.

it looks like right now I will need:
motor mount kit
engine gasket set
new drain plug gaskets
freeze plugs (not leaking just want to change while out)
oil pan

I saw Army Jeep Parts has the oil pan any opinions good or bad? PM is fine.

before I order is there anything I am missing?

[mallard]

Hey Mallard, here's a video on pulling the power pack in 8 minutes, though your time and results may vary. I have a spare oil pan here in Ohio but it only fits an M151. Don't recall who it was that hammered out the dent in their oil pan the last time, but that dent is there for a reason
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIJ_QCuhwGc
Rainman

Thanks for the video, I watched it before I went to start disconnecting everything. one positive of this is I will be able to clean the rest of the old oil off of everything a little better. I pressure washed the underside again and was surprised to see lots of green paint. I was expecting the entire underside and parts to be all rust.

[whiterabbit]

All those leaks are designed to protect the underside from rust. If you get rid of all the leaks the darn thing will will fall apart in a week.
That's what I keep saying to myself when I crawl under my trucks.
FYI, I thought I saw a mount set in the for sale section.

[mallard]

We'll I got the front passenger bolt out. No room for a saw, to much oil for a torch, any objections or downside to drilling the head off the last bolt and just replacing the engine mounts?

[mallard]

We'll I got the last bolt out!!!! I was able to stick a small pry bar under the head of the bolt ( it wasn't fully tight) then while prying up I hit it with an impact and it came on out. Now I can pull the motor and find see if there are any other problems before I order parts

[rickf]

If someone put grade eight bolts in there you are not going to drill them. Wash toe oil off with dish soap or purple cleaner and torch the head off. As long as you have all of the wiring and line out of the way a little burning oil will not hurt anything. It will go out when you remove the torch. Keep the hose near by if you are uneasy about it. Definitely do it outside if you are in your home garage, in a regular shop then no problem. Just make sure your torch is set right so you can get in,cut quick and get out. I can't stand watching people who do not know how to cut with a torch and they sit there waiting for it to get hot enough to burn, and wait, and wait............................. With a standard tip you should be able to get in, through and out in ten seconds max. That way you do not heat up stuff that should not be heated.

[rickf]

Cancel the above. you typed faster than I did. Glad you got it out without damage to the vehicle or yourself.

[Mr. Recovery]

You could try taking the 2 bolts out of the engine, the lower one 1st because it is harder to reach. Ya, what rick said!! I am slower then he is.

[mallard]

Thanks, just glad to get it out. I did notice 2 transmission leaks that i will fix also. here it is set out to find what else the P/O changed out!!!





here is the first transmission leak by the rear output shaft. can you help with which seal to change out here and what I will need to do.



the 2nd leak is where the 4x4 shifter is. can i change this little seal? thanks again for the help

[Horst]

The rear one is obviously super easy. Remove the rear seal retainer, replace gasket with a little gasket sealer and you are good to go. Check if the output seal is really still good or the output pinion has some grooves from wearing. If yes, they can repaired quickly with a sleeve and a new seal (which is slightly bigger in diameter to handle the sleeve, they come in pairs).

You can also change the little seal for the 4x4 engagement without fully disassembling the transmission. Remove that little sheet metal plate, then you have access to disassemble the shifter fork from the shifter rod, pull the shifter rod out and then you can change the seal. This is just from memory without looking into the manual but I have done it and as such can assure you that it is no big deal.

BTW, the way you used the chains to pull the engine is not perfect. It will bend both the front and the rear lifting eye. Specifically the rear one can break easily. Much better to use a bar with attached chains to that both chains will pull up vertically.

[rickf]

You can by a seal kit for the output seals that will have all of the seals and sleeves. That is the easiest and cheapest route. That way you get all of the leakers at once while it is out. You will have to buy the little seal separately. Just so you know, you have a early style bell housing. That plate in front of the starter was removed and a manual lever was put there to disengage the starter in very cold weather, as in arctic conditions. Never saw the whole setup myself, just the bell housing.

[mallard]

Thanks for all the help so far. Ive had a problem with the EGR system on my daily driver truck so I had to put this on hold to get that cleaned up. this is the list of parts I think I need so far. please help me if I am missing something so maybe I can get by with 1 shipping charge. this is everything I need to fix to get back driving.

1. oil pan and gasket. PN: 8754109 and 5702198
2. o-ring under distributor: covered above with the 5702198
3. gasket at rear of transmission. PN 5702196
4. input of front diff. PN 12302592 (I found this part number in the TM, what all does it consist of)(on my front diff both inputs are leaking, will I need 1 or 2)

5. does anybody know the PN for the little seal where the 4x4 shifter goes into the trans or is it covered in the PN5702196 I have above?

aslo none of the trans outputs appear to be leaking, its just behind the rear flange. do I still need the seal kit and sleeves? thanks for the help.

[rickf]

I have never seen that gasket you are pointing at leak, it looks to me like the oil is running down from above and then around the edge of that housing. But I am not there to see it in person. If you do not want to do the output shaft seals that is totally up to you, you will kick yourself when they start to leak in the vehicle. If they are old originals they will leak, sooner than later. There are complete kits for the differential also with the same seals and sleeves to cover the whole diff. If you want to do only one then again, it is up to you but I always do them all at once and then I do not have to worry about them.

[mallard]

Thanks, I think you win Rick, i will go ahead and change the seals and add the sleeves in the trans. the gasket i am looking at is in the -34P is item 22 PN 8754388 on page 70-1 or in the PDF link in the top corner is on page 177. I have not torn it apart so i don't know ? I'll clean up that end of the transmission and fill it back up and see exactly where its leaking.

[mallard]

well i cleaned up the motor tonight and set it up on a stand so i will be able to work on it. I pulled the front and rear flanges off the transmission and it looks like both have had wear sleaves put on at some point. the rear sleave has started to wear a grove in it. i've never messed with transmissions before, is it correct for the flange to just slide out with very little resistance?

I'm going to try to get my parts ordered tomorrow so maybe i will be able to get them installed this weekend in the 100 degree heat there forcasting